Reunited: Desert Spring & the Grand Canyon

I’ve been blessed with a rich life of friends over my lifetime.  These are the friends with whom you pick up where you left off, as if no time had passed, when separate by long intervals.

My friend Doug Pilcher is that kind of friend, and we may have set a record with a 25 year gap between being together in person.  Although not a record I want to repeat, the positive is we’re so much on the same page with humor, meaningful conversation, zaniness and a sense of adventure that we didn’t feel a quarter century had passed.  Felt like we saw each other yesterday.  Even more amazing was that time seemed to stand still during our recent visit.  

I got a double greeting when he picked me up at Sky Harbor airport.  First a giant “I haven’t seen you in 25 years” bearhug from Doug.  I knew right there it was going to be a great week. I jump in the seat and immediately greeted by Louie, their Catahoula dog.  Louie had to check me out and seemed to approve.  He’s energetic and chill, depending on the moment.  An endearing and cool dog.

The final greeting came from Stacey upon arrival at their home with more hugs and hospitality.  Mi casa, su casa.  Truly a home away from home. 

We explored some trails in the Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area.   Seasonal creeks bubbled throughout before reducing to bone dry in the heat of summer.  Louie accompanied us and enjoyed exploring all the scents along the way.  Splashes of spring green signaled early desert spring arrival with flowers greeting us along the dry trails.  Saguaro dotted much of the area, some with arms intertwined beyond the familiar classic shape.  Ah, and the clear azure sky background to plants, rocks, birds and people.

Stacey invited me to her yoga class the next morning.  The studio was beautiful with soft fabric horizontally hanging from the ceiling, warm dim lights, and symbolic artifacts at the front. Heidi, the instructor, led a wonderful Ashtanga Yoga session flowing from one pose to the next, combining constant stretching and movement to music and her guiding voice.   We walked out feeling simultaneously relaxed and invigorated.

Breakfast at home consisted of one of Stacey’s delicious smoothies and a grapefruit picked from the tree in their yard. Doesn’t get any fresher than that!

Besides getting together, our primary adventure was to hike the Grand Canyon.  A day long out and back from the South Rim down to the Colorado River and back.  18 miles of tough trail with nearly 9000’ total elevation change.  This would be a physical and mental challenge for me as I haven’t done anything of this magnitude nor done any wilderness hiking in many years.

We drove from Phoenix, through Flagstaff, and on to the South Rim.  We stayed at the El Tovar Hotel, a rustic lodge built in the early 1900’s, get a good night rest before the the trek.

I was awakened in the middle of the night by the sound of chewing.  A mouse was chewing on what sounded like my backpack, trying to score an easy meal off my snacks.

I turned on the lights and it stopped, although we never saw it.  Doug had the genius idea of putting a small amount of bread on the floor to lure it away from our food. Next morning, the bread was gone.  Disaster averted!

Although it’s spring in the desert, the South Rim is at nearly 7000’ elevation, resulting in a brisk 25 degree starting temp.  We layered up and were on trail by 7:30am.  The first quarter mile or so of trail had ice that was covered by a fine sand/dust.  I told Doug he brought me in as a “glacier guide”, and I gave him some static about losing his footing and landing on his butt at one point.

Once we got moving, our bodies got in a rhythm and warmed up, shedding layers as we progressed down the steep switchbacks.  We found a steady pace, watching our footing yet pausing to take in the majestic beauty around us.  We arrived at Indian Garden, a natural oasis at around the halfway point, in about 2.5 hours.  Approximate halfway point in distance, however the upper half comprise about 2/3’s of the effort as it’s the steepest and most challenging.

Doug opted to stay at Indian Garden due to allergies bothering his sinuses, plus he’d hiked all this multiple times.  I went forth to meet the Colorado River.  I set off at a quick pace, the bottom half being easier to pickup speed.  A California Condor (successfully reintroduced to the area) greeted me on the way down. I figured he was waiting for my return to see if I’d collapse and become an easy meal!

I made it to the river and enjoyed a PB&J, dried cranberries, and dark chocolate on a warm rock while basking in the sun and listening to the river.  The frigid water cooled my feet as I soaked in the majestic beauty around me.  This was something special that elevated my spirit and senses.  I recommend you find a way to do this hike at some point in your life.  Guaranteed it’s worth the travel time to get there and the soreness you’ll feel after.

I could have stayed all day and completely drifted out of reality to become one with the Canyon, but forced myself to put my shoes back on and start the long climb back out.

Arrived at Indian Spring, surprising Doug on how fast this Michigander relegated to flat terrain could blast up the trail.

We began the final assent together, walking step for step, switchback for switchback, mile for mile.  We’d stop occasionally to breathe in the essence and beauty around us, watch the colors and contrast shift as the sun arced across the clear deep blue sky.

Seven hours from the start we finished at the top. We paused, looking back at the grandeur and feeling one part relief and one part loss that it was over.

What do we do after such a physical endeavor?  Grab a huge bag of Ruffles and pints of IPA for “recovery nutrition”.  Never tasted to so good!

The final day was driving back and hanging out and enjoying my last day in the desert, knowing cold and snow awaited my return to Michigan.

I enjoyed talking to Stacey about her work and found we shared a similar interest in books on personal growth and leadership.  Her collection includes some of my favorites such as Simon Sinek, Jim Collins & Seth Godin.  And some authors I need to explore.

Stacey was so kind and welcoming throughout, a truly beautiful person that brings a warm genuine joy to those around her.

I think the reason Doug and my friendship has endured for so long is we both flip between silly humor and meaningful discussions.  The week had plenty of both, one of the reasons it was so great.  Doug is a good man and I’m fortunate to have him as a friend.

It wasn’t even a full 6 days, but felt longer, like time stood still, with only the rising and setting sun to remind us the world continued to move.

I came home refreshed, cleansed, relaxed, introspective, with some sore ab muscles from all the long and deep laughter we shared.

Thanks to Doug & Stacey (and Louie!) for your wonderful hospitality and welcoming friendship, I am truly blessed to call you my friends and I love you both.