Isle Royale Windigo to Rock Harbor

Doug and DeVeaux Wilderness Adventure 2024: Hike the length of Isle Royale from Windigo to Rock Harbor via the Greenstone Trail. September 10-15, 2024.

Mileage 46.4 miles from Gaia GPS app. Similar although not exact as spreadsheet and map. Our goal was to have fun rather than blitz long mileage days just to get somewhere.

Fly into Windigo in a Beaver floatplane. The 40 minute flight totally beat the 5 hour ferry ride, and fun experience being in a plane with so much history. Well worth the additional cost!

Despite our bodies’ initial protest to donning a heavy pack and starting with a climb, we settled into a steady groove and made camp in 3 hours. Good pace out of the gate!

Campgrounds on the lakes are wonderful! Camp sites either a short walk to the shore or right on the water. Dragon flies here are huge!

Water resupply was always the first task at hand after setting up camp. Park service had warnings about tapeworm in the inland lakes, so we double treated with filtration and UV. Lake water cold enough to be refreshing and I went for a swim and rinsed out clothes.

The trail quality declined as become more rugged and minimally maintained after a few miles in. Lots of deadfall both on ground and above. We’re both noticing the effects of this “rugged” trail (read: poorly maintained!) that is harder on the legs and joints than out West with harder climbs and elevation gains.

Highlight one day was seeing a bull moose on the trail, approximately 50m away. Could barely make him out from as facing us partially behind a tree, then saw the antlers slightly move. Then he turned and walked perpendicular to us so we could witness his full magnificence, truly a captivating experience.

We heard loons all day! Such a lovely and some what haunting sound, in a soothing way.

In the evening, two loons were calling to each other from opposite sides of the lake. Was amazing to witness this call and response.

Wind died down, so still and serene. Could hear the loons flapping wings from other side of lake. There was a high haze cloud cover that visibly dimmed the sun and turned the sunset a deep orange. Wondering if caused by distance forest fire smoke or something else in upper atmosphere.

Loons calling on and off throughout the night were lovely.

Surprised Doug to celebrate Friday the 13th with 2 cans M43 beer. That’s right, been hauling 2+ pounds for 4 days! Was a good celebration with a great friend in a beautiful place.

Also heard a pack of wolves yipping and howling in the distance multiple times. Magnificent symphony from these amazing animals. Thankful they’ve rebounded from the diminished population ten years ago.

We are treated by so many wonderful bird sounds that change throughout the day based on time, location and terrain.

We opted for a shelter since posts about wolves and other critters required either staying in shelter or using food storage lockers if in a tent.

Also went swimming off the dock with Jake, a really cool guy we met at Hatchet Lake. Wonderful clear cold refreshing Lake Superior water! I wasn’t able to convince Doug to join in the immersive experience, but he got some good pics and video of us!

Takeaways

Overall, trails wind around with lots of roots and rocks, so requires focus even when slow going.

Much of the deadfall looks to have been there many years, with quite a few detours around them. All but one carved out by hikers rather than planned park service re-route.

The term “rugged” is just a name for poorly or not maintained.

Greenstone is mostly in the woods until toward the end on east side. No scenery or visual cues for distance.

Essentially a long mindless slog void of visual stimulation between campsites, themselves exquisitely beautiful. Makes the challenging hike worth it to relax in a lovely spot.

Final thoughts.

From the beginning of the trip, Doug kept saying throughout that, “every day is a gift.”

And I’m like, “yeah, every day is a gift.”

Halfway into the trip, he disclosed the full meaning of this statement: he’d been diagnosed with Parkinson's. There is no cure at this time, and an expected downward slide. He’s on meds that help, for how long they’ll be effective and how this impacts him long term remain to be seen. Despite this, he retains his positive disposition, is happy, and continues his zest for life and adventure.

We committed that we’d continue doing these trips as long as he’s able. Life is fragile and puts into perspective all the daily shit that doesn’t matter.

Every day is a gift, so maximize it like there’s no tomorrow!